Salam, friends! It’s Dada Malika here, standing on a rooftop overlooking one of Fez’s most iconic sights—the ancient tannery. Below me, a vibrant patchwork of dye-filled vats stretches out, surrounded by the narrow, winding streets of the old medina. Behind me, the city of Fez sprawls in every direction, a maze of history, culture, and life.
The tannery is a sight to behold, but let me warn you—the smell is intense. As the workers process leather in these centuries-old vats, the air fills with the strong odor of the natural ingredients used in the process: pigeon droppings, quicklime, salt, and water. It’s an age-old technique passed down through generations, and while the sight is captivating, the smell can be overwhelming. That’s why, when you visit, you’re handed a sprig of fresh mint to help you cope with the strong scent. Hold it close, and take in the scene below—it’s an experience like no other.
The tannery is the beating heart of Fez, a place where tradition meets craftsmanship. The men here work tirelessly, using their hands and feet to craft some of the finest leather in the world. This is where raw hides are transformed into the softest babouches, the richest leather bags, and the most exquisite jackets. Each piece carries the spirit of Fez, a city that lives and breathes through its artisanal traditions.
But Fez is not just about the tannery. The medina is a haven for food lovers, with dishes that reflect the city’s deep cultural roots and culinary traditions. Here are my top 5 must-try dishes when you find yourself wandering through the old streets of Fez:
1. Beef Tagine Mderbel
Beef Tagine Mderbel is a feast for the senses. This dish features beef cooked with a luscious sauce topped with fried eggplants. The rich, smoky flavor of the eggplants combined with the tender beef creates a dish that is both comforting and full of depth.
2. Tagine Kadra
Tagine Kadra is a Fez classic, featuring lamb or beef slow-cooked with smen (fermented butter), ginger, saffron, and cinnamon. The tender meat is topped with blanched almonds cooked in the tagine sauce, adding a sweet, nutty contrast to the savory flavors. Often served at special occasions, this dish captures the rich culinary heritage of Fez.
3. M’qualli Tagine
M’qualli Tagine is a dish that shows off the best of Moroccan cuisine. Made with chicken slow-cooked in a sauce of preserved lemons, olives, and onions, it’s a dish that’s both tangy and savory. The preserved lemons add a burst of flavor, while the olives provide a briny contrast that pairs perfectly with the rich sauce. Served with warm bread to soak up every drop, M’qualli is a dish that you’ll want to savor slowly.
4. Filalia (El Halwa Filaliya)
Filalia, also known as “El Halwa Filaliya,” is a traditional sweet from Fez. The dish is made from thin, fried sheets of dough, which are then mixed with honey, orange blossom water, and cinnamon. The final touch comes from toasted almonds and sesame seeds, adding a delightful crunch to this sweet, aromatic treat. Filalia is traditionally served with beldi butter and bread, making it a rich, satisfying experience that reflects Fez’s culinary traditions.
5. Pastilla
No culinary journey in Fez would be complete without tasting Pastilla, a dish that is as iconic as it is delicious. Pastilla, also known as “b’stilla,” is a savory-sweet pie traditionally made with chicken, almonds, and eggs, wrapped in layers of crisp phyllo pastry. It is then dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon, creating a blend of flavors that is both exotic and comforting. Pastilla is often served at weddings and special occasions, making it a dish deeply connected to Moroccan culture and tradition.
Standing on this rooftop, with the tannery below and the historic medina stretching out behind me, I’m reminded of why Fez is such a special place. It’s a city that engages all your senses, from the vibrant colors of the tannery to the rich flavors of its cuisine. Fez isn’t just a place—it’s an experience, one that will stay with you long after you’ve left its ancient streets.
